Between Tradition and Modernity: A Road Trip Through Taiwan

I must admit that I knew little about the small country next to its big brother China before my trip to Taiwan. How surprised I was during my round trip by its extreme rich diversity. The island features beautiful landscapes and mountainous regions, modern cities that have preserved the traditional charm of old China, and splendid beaches along the coast that invite relaxation.

Did you know that Taiwan is one of the best hiking destinations in Southeast Asia? With 268 peaks over 3,000 meters, including Yushan, the highest mountain at 3,952 meters, it is a true paradise for nature lovers and for people like me who enjoy being active outdoors. The best part of a road trip through Taiwan: The drive between cities and mountains usually takes only a few hours. From sparkling skyscrapers and colorful temples to the wild landscapes surrounding Taiwan's highest peaks - I'll show you what the country has to offer!

Nestled in a river valley and surrounded by mountains covered in tea bushes, Taipei is Taiwan's largest city and home to over 2.6 million people. As the cultural and political center of Taiwan, the city showcases modernity with sparkling skyscrapers, a highly efficient public transportation system, and bustling shopping centers.

The quaint mountain village of Jiufen is located at the foothills of the Keelung Mountains, about an hour's drive east of Taipei. Jiufen's architecture displays Chinese and Japanese influences, giving the charming village a unique character. The narrow alleys are lined with old tea houses, traditional shops, and small restaurants. Red lanterns and traditional characters on the buildings create a romantic and mysterious atmosphere.

The scent of freshly brewed tea and delicious street food fills the air and lures visitors to Jiufen Old Street, a narrow lane lined with food stalls and souvenir shops. Try Ah-Ma's Taro Balls, a popular local dessert served with sweet syrup. Additionally, there are local specialties such as grilled squid, fish balls, and fried tempura. Jiufen and tea houses go together like Munich and Oktoberfest. Take the opportunity to try traditional Taiwanese tea at the famous Amei Tea House and enjoy a moment of tranquility amidst the bustling streets.

My road trip through Taiwan took me from Jiufen to Hualien on the northeast coast. The city is the gateway to Taroko National Park and is particularly known for its Dongdamen Night Market, which opened in 2015 and is the largest in the east of the country. With over 400 stalls, the variety of local dishes is incredibly vast. You will find a variety of noodle dishes, sizzling grills with seafood, and stinky tofu, an acquired taste but a favorite delicacy among many Taiwanese.

The white marble walls of the steep rock formations and the turquoise waters of the Liwu River attract countless visitors to Taroko Gorge in eastern Taiwan. The Taroko National Park was formed thousands of years ago by glacial movements and offers unforgettable nature experiences and stunning views.

Please make sure to check the official national park website before your visit for any possible closures of hiking trails and viewpoints, as is currently the case (as of August 2025) due to earthquakes and typhoons.

One of the most popular hiking trails in the park is the Baiyang Trail. It passes through seven above-ground tunnels, lush green landscapes, and ends with a majestic "water curtain" cascading from the ceiling of the last tunnel.

Other routes include the scenic Swallow Grotto Trail, where swallows perform daring aerial maneuvers through the narrow gorge, and the path to the Eternal Spring Shrine. This shrine, built in the architectural style of the Tang Dynasty on a cliff, offers wide views of the surrounding canyon.

Are you fearful of heights? Then the Bulowan Suspension Bridge is a very special experience. It crosses the Liwu Valley at a height of about 152 m and is the longest and highest bridge in Taroko Park. From the bridge, one can observe the twists and turns of the Liwu River, flanked by the steep walls of the gorge, with a view extending to the high mountains in the distance.

You can also book organized tours through Taroko National Park. I can recommend the provider Island Life Taiwan.

Green Island (also known as Lyudao) is a volcanic island off the east coast of Taitung. It is home to some of Taiwan's most beautiful coral reefs, and on land, you can hike over grassy hills and admire towering rock formations up close.

Divers and snorkelers will be delighted here, as Lyudao is known for its colorful underwater world and even has a few shipwrecks. Shihlang, Dabaisha, and Chaikou are three popular spots.

The island's most popular beach is Dabaisha on the west coast, featuring white coral sand and many natural pools that are perfect for snorkeling. Right next to the Green Island Airport, you'll find one of the island's most famous attractions - the lighthouse, a popular photo spot.

The easiest way to get to Green Island is a flight with Daily Air from Taitung Airport (TTT) to Green Island Airport (GNI). The flight takes only 20 minutes and there are multiple departures daily.

However, most visitors take the ferry from Fugang Fishing Harbor, just outside Taitung City, to Nanliao Harbor on Green Island. Several ferry companies (Triumph, Uranus, Green Island Star) operate identical prices. You can book tickets directly with these operators, or I simply booked a ticket online via Klook due to the language barrier.

The ferry to Green Island departs at 9:30 AM and 1:30 PM and returns to Taitung at 10:30 AM and 2:30 PM (as of May 2023). The journey takes about 50 minutes. Upon arrival, thousands of scooters will be waiting at the ferry terminal for rent, as the island is best explored on two wheels.

Here are my personal recommendations summarized for you. You can simply share the list with your travel buddy!

As is typical with decent road trips, you occasionally come across unknown places that you hadn't had on your radar. This happened to me with this beautiful place, the Shuangliu National Forest Recreation Area, which I randomly discovered on my map during my drive from Taitung to Kenting and decided to stop. Some beautiful hiking trails and as a reward a roaring waterfall? Count me in!

The park is easily accessible right on the highway heading south (to Kenting) and offers three different trails of varying lengths. However, the highlight of the park is the hike to the Shuangliu Waterfall, which has repeatedly been voted the second most beautiful waterfall in Taiwan.

It is located within the park, about 3.6 kilometers from the entrance, and is easily reachable via a beautiful forest trail along the riverbank. Only towards the end does the trail get a bit steeper and more challenging, but it is still manageable for untrained hikers.

Birdwatching and butterfly spotting, along with abundant mahogany trees, Formosan ash trees, and natural broadleaf trees, contribute to the enjoyment of this relaxed trail through Taiwan's pristine nature.

At the end of the path, after some steps up and down, the roaring waterfall comes into view, cascading down and creating a refreshing cool mist in the basin below. The surrounding cliffs and vibrant green landscape make this spot even more majestic. There are a few benches to rest and let the beauty of this place sink in. A true insider tip if you're traveling Taiwan by car. The entrance to the park costs 100 TWD (approximately 3 Euros, as of May 2023), and the opening hours are from 08:00 AM to 05:00 PM.

At the southern tip of Taiwan lies the Kenting National Park. There, you will find white sandy beaches, beautiful forested areas, picturesque mountains, and a tropical climate. The park is located on the Hengchun Peninsula and is one of the most popular destinations on the island with its combination of sunshine, breathtaking nature, and relaxed atmosphere. Surrounding the park is the opportunity to visit some beaches and coves along the Pacific Ocean.

At the tranquil Baishawan Bay, there is a 400-meter long white sand beach. The water is excellent for swimming and snorkeling.

Dawan Beach is just a short walk from Kenting's tourist street. It is not as lively and bustling as Baishawan, but offers the longest stretch of beach in all of Kenting. It's best to stay until sunset - it's worth it!

A visit to the Kenting National Forest Recreation Area (entrance fee 150 TWD/ approximately 4.50 Euros, opening hours: 08:00 AM - 05:00 PM, as of May 2023) is the perfect counterbalance to lazy afternoons on the sandy beaches. The park is home to over 1,000 plant species and offers 17 scenic spots, all connected by designated hiking trails.

Along the way, you will see the over 400-year-old Looking-glass Tree with its fascinatingly shaped roots and the enchanting Fairy Cave, an underground cave with massive stalactites and stalagmites. Animal lovers will also be pleased, as numerous macaques reside in the park, frolicking in the trees.

The southern city of Kaohsiung, Taiwan's largest port and second-largest city, has undergone a transformation over the past few decades. The days of heavy industry are history. Today's Kaohsiung is a modern metropolis with wide streets, waterfront parks, bike paths, and cultural attractions.

I love art and street art. Therefore, I was especially eager to visit the Pier 2 Art Center. In the port of Kaohsiung, a unique open art space has been created, providing artists and students an environment in which they can realize themselves and which has become Kaohsiung's most popular cultural site. From time to time, all kinds of art activities are hosted here, and you will find some of the best street art pieces from all over Taiwan.

But it's not just art you will find here. At the eastern end of Pier 2 is another cluster of warehouses. They house some cool shops, including ceramics, jewelry, fashion, crafts, cafes, restaurants, and much more. The possibly best craft beer bar in Kaohsiung, Beer Talk Café & Bar, is located in C11. Here you can find an extensive selection of beers from around the world and their own creations. Delicious matcha ice cream in many variations can be found at Matcha City.

The picturesque, pedestrian-only Big Port Bridge, designed like a sailboat, is a true eye-catcher.

Climb up the Pier 2 Tower to capture great panoramic photos of the city and harbor at sunset.

This famous area on the northern outskirts of Kaohsiung is known for its many temples, including the Confucius Temple in the north and the Dragon and Tiger Pagoda, as well as the Spring and Autumn Pavilions in the south. The lake is most beautiful in the late afternoon when the setting sun reflects in the water.

Fo Guang Shan is one of the four major Buddhist organizations in Taiwan, and its impressive headquarters is located about 30 minutes by car east of downtown Kaohsiung. It is the largest monastery complex in Taiwan, spanning over 130 hectares. The Buddha is, in my opinion, the star of the exhibition at Fo Guang Shan. Standing at 48 meters tall and weighing 1,800 tons, it is the largest sitting Buddha statue in the world.

Fo Guang Shan also has a number of excellent vegetarian restaurants. I had a great meal at a small restaurant with a souvenir shop on the left side of the entrance.

Surrounded by the western foothills of the Central Mountain Range, Sun Moon Lake rises like a jewel out of Taiwan's mountains at an elevation of 748 meters.

The opulent Wenwu Temple, in traditional Chinese style, sits on a hill with breathtaking views of Sun Moon Lake and the mountains. The temple consists of three halls dedicated to three different deities. You can spend an hour or two exploring all the halls and appreciating the many details inside the temple.

You can enjoy an unforgettable view of the lake from the Ci'en Pagoda, a 48-meter-high pagoda in traditional Chinese style situated high above the lake on a mountain.

You can reach Sun Moon Lake by bus from Taichung if you are not exploring the island by rental car. The journey takes about 1.5 hours. For more connections, visit the official website. The best way to explore the lake is by bike, which you can rent in Shuishe for about 100 - 150 TWD (starting at about 3 Euros) per day.

Tainan, the oldest city on the island and former capital, is located on the southwest coast of Taiwan and has a long history of cultural influences, largely visible in the existing architecture. In the early 16th century, Dutch merchants began building fortifications here and about half a century later, Ming and Qing loyalists took control. These influences are felt throughout the city.

As soon as I step into Tainan, I sense a unique atmosphere that transports me back in time. The cobblestone streets lined with ancient temples and historic buildings provide a great insight into Taiwan's rich history. The traditional red tiled roofs and intricately decorated façades create a unique aesthetic. It feels as if the past is alive in every corner of the city.

The impressive Grand Mazu Temple is one such example. It once served as the palace of Ning Jin, the last king of the Ming dynasty. Particularly noteworthy are the 300-year-old Mazu statue and the shrine to Mazu's parents in the back area, which used to be the king's bedroom. If you look up, you'll see the beam from which the king's lovers hanged themselves; these women are honored at the Wufei Temple.

You must also visit Anping Old Street in Tainan. It is a historic, narrow street flanked by tall old brick houses. Along both sides of the street, there is a shopping passage where primarily candied fruits, crab crackers, traditional peanut candies, and other Taiwanese foods for which Tainan is famous are sold. However, you will also find traditional handicrafts such as fans, sculptures, dolls, and much more. But be sure to look up occasionally to admire the lion gods on the rooftops of the old buildings or take a glance at the sword lions on the doorframes.

Taiwan is a country that can be easily explored by rental car. This way, you are independent and can explore remote corners of the island. Like in Germany, driving is also on the right side of the road in Taiwan. Although traffic in Taipei is quite manageable by the standards of many Asian cities, it may seem a bit chaotic to drivers from the West. Therefore, I wouldn't recommend renting a car in this city. Visitors who wish to explore Taiwan beyond Taipei will find a good infrastructure that is excellent for exploring by car.

There are various car rental companies available on-site, from international chains to local providers. An international driver's license is required for rental. The highways marked with green flower signs are the only toll roads in Taiwan. Tolls are collected electronically, and as a tourist, you pay directly to the rental company when returning your rental car. With 1.2 TWD per kilometer (under 5 cents), Taiwan's toll fees are very affordable.

If you want to travel sustainably through Taiwan, I recommend taking the 300 km/h high-speed train (THSR - Taiwan High Speed Rail). Especially the western part of the island is well covered with THSR stations, and you can quickly and affordably get from A to B. Information about departure times and tickets can be found on the website or in the app.

Here are things you should know before your trip to Taiwan.