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There are several ways to reach the former Inca city. The fastest but also the most expensive option is the train connection from Cusco directly to Aguas Calientes. Alternatively, you can take a bus to Hidroelectrica, which is a very cost-effective way to travel; from there, there is still a two-hour hike to Aguas Calientes.
Speaking of hiking - the most exciting way for me to reach this highlight of a Peru trip is one of the various hikes that bring you to the foot of Machu Picchu. Besides the famous Inca Trail, there are now several rewarding alternatives that I would like to introduce to you.
On the Inca Trail through the Sacred Valley
Route: Near Ollantaytambo (Bus from Cusco) to Machu Picchu
Duration: 4 Days
Length: About 42 kilometers
Highest Pass: Warmi Wañusqa 4,215m
The Inca Trail is probably the most famous hike in all of Peru and therefore extremely popular. The route has only been allowed to be traveled with a guide for many years. Additionally, the daily starting slots have been reduced to 500 people.
So if you want to hike along the royal road of the Andes to Machu Picchu, it is advisable to book through a travel agency in advance.
Over the four days on the Inca Trail, you will experience almost daily changes in vegetation zones. You will be able to experience everything from rugged mountain passes to rainforests. The second day will certainly be the most strenuous, as you will need to conquer the Warmi Wañusqa or 'Dead Woman's Pass' at over 4,000 meters.
On the fourth day, you will reach the Sun Gate Inti Punku after a relatively short hike, and the ancient ruins city will be within reach. You can then stroll through the ancient sites for the rest of the day and leave the challenges of the last days behind.
Inca Jungle Trail
Route: Cusco to Aguas Calientes
Duration: 4 Days
Length: About 37 kilometers (excluding biking section)
Highest Pass: Abra Malaga Pass 4,316m
The Inca Jungle Trail is a different way to reach your chosen destination. Adventure and adrenaline are your companions here. On the first day, you take a bus from Cusco to the Abra Malaga Pass. From there you hop on the bikes and hit a downhill slope of about 1,500 meters. In Santa Maria, you can optionally book a rafting tour in the afternoon.
On the second and third days of the Jungle Trail, you will need to walk several kilometers. Relaxation can be found in Santa Teresa at the hot springs, which are especially soothing after a long hike. Hopefully, you will encounter some wild animals in the rainforest along the way; for those seeking more excitement, you can kick off the third day with a zip-lining tour.
Ultimately, you will arrive in Aguas Calientes at the end of the third day, so you can either take the bus or hike the remaining kilometers to Machu Picchu the next morning.
Lares Trek
Route: Lares (Bus from Cusco) to Yanahuara (continue by bus & train)
Duration: 5 Days
Length: About 33 kilometers
Highest Pass: Huaca Wasi Pass 4,500m
Although the Lares Trek only partially takes you to one of the new wonders of the world over its 33 kilometers, it is not far to Aguas Calientes from the endpoint Yanahuara with a mini-van and train.
Scenic-wise, the Lares Trek is said to be one of the most beautiful trails in the Sacred Valley, but it is also very challenging due to the Huaca Wasi Pass at about 4,500 meters above sea level. Along the way, you will frequently encounter shepherds with their llamas or alpacas, which make for great photo opportunities. There are various trails on the Lares route, so your tour provider may choose a different path, for example crossing the Pumawanka Pass (approx. 4,600m). This trek has the advantage of not feeling overcrowded.
On the Go on the Salkantay Trek - My Experiences
Route: Mollepata (Bus from Cusco) to Aguas Calientes
Duration: 4-5 Days
Length: About 60 kilometers (total length)
Highest Pass: Salkantay Pass 4,638m
The Salkantay Trek is probably the number one alternative route to Machu Picchu. You can choose between a duration of 4 or 5 days to conquer the approximately 60 kilometers. If you like, you can also trade a few kilometers for a bit of adrenaline with ziplining. I would like to share my experiences on the Salkantay Trek with you.
The evening before, we had a briefing at the hostel, where we were handed sleeping bags, mats, and trekking poles. This way, we could split our luggage - the daypack with camera, drinks, and valuables that we always carried with us, and a duffel bag with equipment and change of clothes that was always brought to the next campsite.
On the first day at 4 AM, we were picked up at our hostel in Cusco by a mini-van. The other trek participants were already on board, along with plenty of provisions for the next days. We spent the two-hour drive to Mollepata half-drowsing.
After a light breakfast, we started our trek slightly above Mollepata. The incline was moderate, but the altitude made its presence felt quickly, and my training in the Bavarian Alps showed no positive effects here. After a few hours and about 900 vertical meters, we reached the first camp in Soraypampa. The tents were already set up, and nothing stood in the way of a breather. The sanitary facilities in this camp are rather rudimentary, so we reduce hygiene to a minimum. Those who are still fit can hike further to the Laguna Humantay. I opted to save my energy for the second strenuous day, although the photos looked very tempting. After dinner, I quickly bundled up in my sleeping bag, as a cold night awaited us.
'Coca tea, coca tea' echoed along our tents - it was five in the morning and time for the second day on the Salkantay Trek. About 700 meters of elevation still separated us from the Salkantay Pass at around 4,630 meters! The beautiful scenery made up for the exhausting challenges because the last meters were quite a struggle for me. From the pass, it was swiftly downhill again, as our night camp was in Chaullay and we still needed to descend over 1,700 meters.
We arrived exhausted in the late afternoon. On that day, our luggage and provisions had to be transported over the pass by horses, and we reached the camp at the same time as our cook and helpers. In Chaullay, you can indulge yourself. A warm shower and a cold beer awaited us trekkers that evening.
Day 3 on the trek, and of course, I woke up with muscle soreness. Fortunately, that day offered us a very relaxing stage. We walked just about 10 kilometers along the Lluskamayo River. The area became greener and more jungle-like, and the temperatures rose significantly. Afterwards, we were driven by mini-van to Santa Teresa. In the evening, we relaxed at the nearby Cocalmayo hot springs, and later in the evening, there was a lively party by the campfire.
Not until 7 AM did we need to be ready on the fourth day of hiking, as it was our 'cheat day'. In the morning, we went to a zipline provider and jumped headfirst or in a Superman pose over deep gorges or wobbled across rickety hanging bridges.
The further drive to Hidroelectrica was almost equally exciting, as we drove along narrow roads with steep drops - only a good playlist provided some distractions. In Hidroelectrica, there was quite a scene. Many mini-vans and trains stop here. We decided to walk the last two hours to Aguas Calientes. It went along the train tracks, so you can't miss the way. That evening we were allowed to check into a hotel - what a luxury after the last few nights.
The next morning, it was up to Machu Picchu - either comfortably by bus or for the diligent ones via many steps to the ultimate goal. Most tours include a guided visit of the ruins! Afterwards, we still had a few hours of free time to explore the entire area at our leisure.
Not until the afternoon did we take trains and buses back to Cusco. We didn't arrive until around 10 PM. I would say we conquered the adventure with flying colors!
Good to Know - Information and Tips for Your Personal Machu Picchu Trail
- Booking the Trail: You should book the Inca Trail from the USA, as availability on-site is very rare. All other treks I would recommend booking on-site (e.g. in Cusco) for cost reasons.
- The Tour Provider: Always check the reviews of your preferred travel agency online in advance, or ask other travelers for tips. Unfortunately, it's impossible to avoid black sheep. Discuss the route in detail, the included services, and who provides equipment such as sleeping bags, etc.
- Tickets for Machu Picchu: Usually, the agency will book the tickets for you. However, independent booking has its advantages. For example, you can also order separate tickets for climbing Montaña or Huayna Picchu. You can pick up the tickets at the central office in Cusco. You can reserve the tickets here.
- The Hygiene Situation: Yes, you will be able to wash. Yes, there will be toilets. And yes, they will usually be gross. Just anticipate that; it's part of the adventure...
- Altitude Sickness: Acclimatization and drinking plenty of water are key in avoiding altitude sickness. More tips can be found here.