New Zealand's North Island: Nature Wonders and Hobbits

We slowly moved forward. The gentle humming from the belly of our vehicle barely registered, as the landscape surrounding us drew all attention. We sat on the Interislander ferry heading towards Wellington, slowly leaving the South Island of New Zealand behind. Our RV was safely secured in the bow, our eyes focused ahead.

We specifically chose the second to last ferry of the day to experience the exceptional atmosphere at sunset, and we made the right choice. Within just an hour, the sky turned orange, the hills around us became even more mystical and greener, and the last dolphins leaped from the water one last time. New Zealand, you unique natural wonder. Ahead lay the final stretch of our road trip and the last five days in New Zealand, which we would spend on the North Island.

After 3.5 hours, we arrived in Wellington. A city known for its vibrant music scene and particularly its film industry, often referred to as Wellywood. The Lord of the Rings gives a nod. We didn't have big plans and had to, to be honest, get used to the many cars and the city vibe. We had spent the last few days on the deserted roads of the South Island, rarely stopping at a traffic light - and certainly not stuck in traffic.

However, Wellington is not that large, so we could comfortably leave our RV at the free parking and overnight area at Evans Bay Marina Car Park. For the first time in a long while and as a small reward for the unique days on the South Island of New Zealand, we wanted to treat ourselves to a meal outside of the campervan at The Chippery.

The next morning, we gave our RV a break and took the bus to downtown. The best way to get an overview of Wellington is from above. For this, we took the Wellington Cable Car, a funicular, from the city center to the higher district of Kelburn (Cost: 7.50 NZD, about 4.80 Euros). Within just ten minutes, Wellington lay beneath us like a carpet: the shimmering water of the bay on one side, the vibrant life at the center, and the many small houses nestled in the hills beside and behind us. The cable car's final station is right next to the Botanical Gardens, allowing you to combine the short trip with a relaxed stroll through the green area.

However, we headed straight back into the city to explore the area around the harbor and the cafés and restaurants on the famous Cuba Street. By the way, it's said that Wellington has more bars and restaurants per capita than New York - so let's go! We started at the Wellington Waterfront and walked all the way to Te Papa Tongarewa, New Zealand's National Museum. From there, we strolled through the rather small and manageable downtown, which blends the charm of a fishing village with that of a small town. Our goal: Cuba Street, the heart of Wellington and now a youthful center of the city.

Tip: Lunch at Olive is worth it not only because of the good food quality but also due to the location itself, which with its courtyard terrace directly provides a cozy holiday atmosphere. If there's still room for dessert afterwards, you should try the cheesecake at Café Espressoholic.

Distance: 64 miles

Overnight tip: Parking and overnight area at Evans Bay Marina Car Park.

We originally planned to drive from Wellington to Lake Taupo. The lake is the largest in New Zealand and one of the best spots for skydiving in New Zealand. But this time we focused on nature and all that the Lake Taupo area had to offer from the ground, not from the air. So we headed straight to Rotorua. The relatively short distance of just about 51 miles took a bit longer than expected due to fog, drizzle, and winding roads. But that was fine, as the view of the foggy landscape around us took us straight back to many scenes from The Lord of the Rings. Nevertheless, we decided on a slower pace - and an overnight stop before Rotorua. This is part of the travel experience in New Zealand: spontaneous decisions that sometimes lead to a longer or shorter stay.

Our spontaneous decision led us along the fog-laden Lake Taupo and through the completely misty Tongariro National Park to the small village of Ohakune. The 1,000 resident village was our shelter for the night - and the last resort for too much rain and fog.

We can only recommend our accommodation in Tongariro National Park: The Top 10 Holiday Park in Ohakune not only offers plenty of powered sites, but also a super clean laundry, modern toilets, and showers.

Early in the morning, we headed straight for Rotorua, the volcanic capital of New Zealand. What does that mean? There are many volcanic springs here that not only produce fascinating mists but also have a peculiar smell of rotten eggs or sulfur. Unfortunately, the rain hadn't really let up, so we drove through the Lord of the Rings scenery, which occasionally gave us a glimpse of the mountains surrounding us. Our first stop was the volcanic site Wai-o-Tapu, where you can choose between a half-hour and a one-hour walk. We chose the shorter option due to the rain and nearly had the place to ourselves. We casually passed the colorful sulfur pools, some shining in neon yellow, others in brown or a whole rainbow of colors, and thought about a Plan B for this rainy day.

New Zealand's outdoor land has a lot to offer - mountains, lakes, hikes, and skydiving. But none of that is possible if the weather doesn't cooperate. We left the egg smell behind and headed to the center of Rotorua. Destination: Polynesian Spa, a facility that consists of several volcanic thermal pools. All the pools are outdoors and offer a wonderful view of Lake Rotorua, located directly in front of the spa. Sometimes rain can indeed be beautiful - when it softly cools your head while your body is warmed by the 98.6°F water.

Feeling deeply relaxed, we left the spa. However, our rainy day in Rotorua was not yet over: Ahead of us lay an evening in the company of the Māori. The North Island of New Zealand is home to many Māori, the indigenous people of New Zealand, who arrived on kayaks from the surrounding Pacific Islands in the 13th century. It is said that seven kayaks started from South Sea Islands like Hawaii, the Cook Islands, or Fiji, and six of them landed on the North Island of New Zealand. Only one kayak continued on to the South Island. That is why more Māori live today on the North Island of New Zealand - many of them around the areas of Rotorua and Taupo. It's no wonder there is a large offering of Māori events here. We decided on the evening at Tamaki Village - a Māori village that offers tourists a genuine Māori performance every evening. Of course, this program is very much tailored to tourists, yet it has a lot of charm and authenticity. Be it the tribal welcome at the entrance, the little introduction to Māori culture in the on-site forest, or the food cooked in an earth oven - the organizers truly know how to excite the visitors. And if the food doesn't impress you, the singing and dancing at the end surely will.

Distance: 280 miles

Overnight tip: We stayed at a Top 10 Campground in Rotorua. Another good tip that can help save money: The parking lot in front of the Polynesian Spa turns into a legal and free parking spot for RVs in the evening.

There it was, the last day of our road trip in New Zealand, but we still couldn't truly believe it. We had grown so accustomed to our RV and the passing landscapes. Just as we had to our cooking evenings in the camper and the morning coffee in the wild. But one small highlight still remained on our list of things we absolutely wanted to do on our road trip through New Zealand: a visit to the village of Hobbiton, which is renowned from Tolkien's films The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit. Even the journey there took us through small idyllic villages nestled between green hills that seemed so inconspicuous that we could hardly imagine anyone living there. Hobbiton is perfectly located between Rotorua and the capital Auckland, making it a great stop for those on this route. Daily tours are offered in Hobbiton, for which you can buy tickets online or simply check on-site for any available slots.

A bus will take you from the reception towards Hobbiton, where the nearly hour-long tour begins with a short stop for a self-brewed beer. We don't want to spoil anything, as the goosebumps moments in Hobbiton must be experienced by each person themselves, but one thing is for sure: even if this tour sounds touristy and is certainly a stop for many visitors, it's well worth it.

And then the moment came when we had to return our RV Adam. The drop-off at Maui in Auckland went smoothly. As long as the vehicle, the toilet, and the wastewater were empty, and the fresh water was filled, the RV was out of our hands sooner than expected.

After nearly 14 days of road trip through New Zealand, we left the Maui grounds with a few tears in our eyes. Rarely has a country fascinated us so much and given us such a sense of freedom. And so we wiped away our tears and with one last look at Adam, thought of the next New Zealand adventure, which we will surely undertake soon with more time and less planning.

Distance: 153 miles