Backpacking in Myanmar: The Best Tips

Myanmar, formerly known as Burma, is located between Thailand, Laos, China, Bangladesh, and India, and is becoming increasingly popular among travelers. This is due to its preserved authenticity, as Myanmar is far removed from the mass tourism that partly prevails in neighboring countries. Blogger Tobi has put together the best tips for backpacking in Myanmar - from Yangon to Hpa-An - in this travel report.

Backpacking in Myanmar is not quite as easy as it is in Thailand, as there is less infrastructure. However, if you embrace Myanmar, it will surely be a unique journey, as the country has much to offer. In this article, I will show you my route for 10 days from Yangon eastward to Hpa-An.

Until 2005 the capital city, Yangon is still the largest city in the country, just no longer the political center. What stands out in Yangon at first glance is the absence of motorcycles, which are common in every Southeast Asian metropolis, and the relatively few tourists.

For the first two days in Yangon, we planned to visit many of the city's pagodas - these are the multi-story, tower-like structures that can also be found in China, Nepal, and Vietnam. At the same time, we like to simply wander through the alleys of the city. This way, we really get to know a city. Since many of the sights are located in Downtown Yangon, we set off on foot.

First stop: Sule Pagoda. Standing in the middle of a huge roundabout is the golden pagoda built in the style of Mon architecture, which is over 2600 years old. Impressive from afar, it is still a point of daily life as locals come by to pray or relax. The entrance fee is 3,000 Kyat (approximately $1.70). The Bogyoke Aung San Market is the next destination and offers numerous shops with jewelry, clothing, handicrafts, and much more across two floors. There are also a few food stalls in the courtyard.

The highlights in Yangon are quite concise, but one outstanding experience awaits you in the evening: a visit to the Yangon Yangon Rooftop Bar in the Sakura Tower. Open from 5:00 PM, you can enter the bar for 5,000 Kyat (approximately $2.90) which includes a drink. It offers a wonderful 360-degree view of the city and is usually not crowded.

You can start the second day with a stroll through Downtown Yangon and discover the small streets as well as Chinatown before heading in the afternoon to Kandawgyi Lake. The entrance fee is 2,000 Kyat (approximately $1.15). There, you can unwind from the hustle of the city and enjoy the view over the lake with the Shwedagon Pagoda in the background.

Now comes the conclusion of our Yangon adventure. One of the largest shrines in Myanmar and the city's landmark, the Shwedagon Pagoda, cannot be missed on any trip. There is a lot to discover on the grounds: The nearly 100-meter high pagoda, a sprig of the Bodhi tree, large Buddha statues, and many other small ornate pagodas. Make sure to take enough time for your visit to the Shwedagon Pagoda.

The entrance fee of 10,000 Kyat (approximately $5.80) is a bit higher, but very worthwhile. If you, like us, arrive at the pagoda around 4:00 PM, you can explore it in daylight and at sunset, which is a fantastic spectacle.

Note: If you still have some time left, you can also take a trip on the Circle Line. It takes you around the city for 3 to 4 hours, through various villages and past many beautiful landscapes. The price is 200 Kyat (approximately $0.12) and the ticket is purchased directly at the platform.

From Yangon, we head to Bago, located 80 kilometers northeast. Bago is not a common stop for many travelers. While buses that run between Yangon and the Golden Rock sometimes stop in Bago, the train ride is a great and cheaper alternative.

You can find Upper Class tickets at a booth at the train station entrance. Upper Class only means your seats are slightly cushioned. The ticket for this two-hour ride costs only 1,000 Kyat (approximately $0.58). It can only be purchased on the same day of travel.

The train ride slowly starts out of Yangon, passing some Circle Line stations, small villages, fields, or temples. On the way to Bago, you can feel how everything becomes more rural until you arrive at a tiny station after 2 hours.

Now it's quickly out of the train, as the stop doesn't last long. Taxis are not available here, so we decided to take a motorcycle taxi to the hotel, which costs about half of the train fare.

Myanmar's fourth largest city seems to offer little at first glance. However, if you're interested in temples and pagodas, it's one of the top destinations in the country. Here stands the tallest pagoda in the country, the Shwemawdaw Pagoda, at a height of 114 meters. After its top collapsed in an earthquake in 1917, it was rebuilt in its current form. The entrance fee is 10,000 Kyat (approximately $5.80), but you can also use this ticket for other temples without paying extra.

Note: A great way to explore the most beautiful temples of Bago in a day is to rent a Tuk Tuk. For 25,000 Kyat (approximately $14.50), you can book a day tour and explore the interesting parts of Bago.

We highly recommend a visit to the Kyaikpun Pagoda, featuring four massive Buddha statues that are attached to a stone pillar. The 27-meter tall statues represent Gautama, Konagamana, Kakusandha, and Kassapa Buddha, all of whom have attained Nirvana.

A final stop on the Tuk Tuk tour is recommended at Mya Tha Lyaung. Here lies an 82-meter-long reclining Buddha statue. It was built only in 2001, but it integrates beautifully into the surrounding temple complexes of Bago. You can read more about Bago, the city full of temples, on my blog.

The statue pairs well with the nearby reclining Buddha, the Shwethalyaung Buddha, which is a bit more crowded. At the Mya Tha Lyaung Buddha, however, you will most likely be alone, making for a special atmosphere.

According to legend, this statue was originally supposed to have a roof built to protect it from the weather. However, every time construction began, a great storm would arise, causing the project to be abandoned.

After two nights in Bago, it's best to head out very early in the morning by minibus to Kyaikto. The price is between 5,000 - 7,000 Kyat (approximately $2.90 - $4.05). We were only 4 passengers in total, making the 2-hour ride quite pleasant.

In Kyaikto, you need to switch to a shared taxi to reach Kinpun Sakhan after another half hour: a small village that serves as the gateway to Myanmar's Golden Rock. There are some hotels and food options in the village, but nothing spectacular, so you can head straight to the Golden Rock at noon.

In a crowded truck with 42 people, it costs 2,000 Kyat (approximately $1.15) to navigate the winding roads up the mountain. Trucks leave every few minutes, resulting in frequent oncoming traffic. Sometimes the roads are so narrow that two trucks cannot pass each other. Once you arrive at the top, you still have about a 10-minute walk, passing many small shops selling souvenirs, drinks, snacks, and friendly faces.

After paying the entrance fee of 10,000 Kyat (approximately $5.80), it's not long before you finally catch sight of the Golden Rock. By the way, after the entrance gate, you must go barefoot, shoes have to be removed.

The golden rock, one of the largest Buddhist shrines in the country, is not as huge as you might imagine. However, its status and location make it impressive. It is said to be held up by a hair from Buddha, preventing it from falling. Western tourists and backpackers are relatively rare here, making it a must-visit in Myanmar.

The next morning, you can continue by bus to Hpa-An, which is 7,000 Kyat (approximately $4.05) away for a 4-hour journey. This place in eastern Myanmar is only 150 kilometers from the Thai border and, in contrast to well-known places like Yangon, Bagan, etc., sees noticeably fewer tourists despite having many highlights to offer.

You can wrap up the first day with a sunset at the Thanlyin River and the night market at Kan Thar Yar Lake.

The next day, you should make a tour, just as we did. You have two options: renting a scooter or a Tuk Tuk with a driver. For a short stay, the second option is the easiest and costs about 30,000 Kyat (approximately $17.50) for the whole day.

The tour starts in the morning and takes you to the attractions of Hpa-An. The first stop is Sadan Cave, a temple in a cave that you can walk through. At the end, you are greeted by a small lake and a boat ride back to the entrance, passing rice fields. The second stop is the Lumbini Garden, located at the foot of Mount Zwegabin. Entrance fee: 4,000 Kyat (approximately $2.30). Here you will find hundreds of Buddha statues spread throughout the area. If you wish, you can even hike to the summit of the mountain and visit the pagoda located at an altitude of 720 meters. The climb takes about 1.5 hours. A cable car is under construction, but its completion is still far off.

Next, we head to the highlight, the Kyauk Kalat Pagoda. The golden stupa rests on the tip of a rock that looks like it could topple over at any moment. You can reach the small island in the middle of the lake via a wooden bridge. From here, you have a great view over the lake, the landscape, and Mount Zwegabin.

For the final stop, we go to another cave temple, the Kawgun Cave. This cave is said to have been expanded at the request of the Mon queen in the 7th century and is decorated with numerous wall sculptures and paintings. You will also find many small and large Buddha statues inside. It truly is a unique cave.

Additionally, you can climb stairs to reach a small pagoda on the rock. Although it isn't particularly impressive, it does offer a stunning view of the surrounding area of Hpa-An. The entrance fee for Kawgun Cave is 3,000 Kyat (approximately $1.70).