Amalfi: Dream Destinations & Sun-Kissed Lemons

Plonk. The old man casually drops a giant lemon onto the metal plate of the scale. I ask him how much a kilo costs. 'Otto,' he replies shortly, not a man of many words, eight euros. If we hadn't been traveling along the Amalfi Coast for a few days already, I would be taken aback, but I've long adapted to the special pricing structure.

Moreover, I'm not completely alert anymore. I'm distracted by the view of the turquoise sea, the rugged cliffs plunging into the water, the old man with his sun-kissed giant lemons beautifully arranged in a crate by the roadside, making me want to bite into one right on the spot. What the heck, I think, and pick out a second lemon. They'll last until I get back to my hometown, Berlin, and I want to take a bit of the Amalfi Coast home with me. They grow everywhere here, the signature fruit of the Amalfi Coast, so to speak, and the souvenir shops are full of lemon liqueur Limoncello, lemon candies, and all sorts of lemon kitsch.

Plonk. The second lemon lands on the scale. The old man holds up eight fingers. 'Otto?' I ask, initially incredulous, but then pay the eight euros without a fuss for two lemons. The Amalfi Coast is worth it to me. 'Gouging!' you might now say, 'Tourist trap!' or 'I would never fall for that.' Probably I would, I assert, and show you in my article beautiful places and insider tips along the Amalfi Coast that can easily overwhelm the senses.

In Sorrento, we fuel up one last time before heading to the Amalfi Coast. Initially just planned as a stopover, Sorrento turns out to be a little surprise. Small boutiques line the pedestrian zone, ice cream shops compete with the number of their flavors, and tourists and locals bustle through the small town center to enjoy the sun's rays. Tip: At the Pizzeria da Franco, the pizza tastes especially good!

'I would love to go to Positano!' my mother said with an eager look months before our trip, and that's the reason we embarked on our mother-daughter road trip along the Amalfitana. Positano is perhaps the most famous place on the Amalfi Coast, once a fishing village, now a meeting point for the rich and famous. And visitors like us, who are fascinated as they stroll down many stairs and through small alleyways into the heart of Positano, surrounded by steep cliffs overgrown with colorful houses. I briefly wonder how people carry their groceries home here and whether it gets too crowded with all the tourists in the summer. Until we sit down at a bar on the beach and look with glazed eyes at the small bay: Positano is uniquely beautiful. Travel dream fulfilled.

Restaurant insider tip: Positano is an expensive place. There are plenty of good restaurants, but they come with corresponding high prices. A pleasant exception is Casa e Bottega, a sister establishment of the trendy Next 2. Here, modern Italian cuisine is served in a fresh atmosphere. A feast for the eyes at a moderate price.

Inextricably connected to the Amalfi Coast is the coastal road. Over 50 kilometers it winds along the cliff sides and offers breathtaking views. Traditionally, you start from west to east, with the coast on the passenger side and various opportunities to briefly stop in the small park bays along the way to take in the view. Driving the Amalfitana is not without its challenges: Due to the elevation changes and the truly many tight curves, even the driver can feel queasy. Luckily, there are lemon vendors at almost every stopping point: Sucking on lemon candies or just sniffing the zest of fresh lemons and the dizziness is gone in no time.

It gets atmospheric even in front of Pasticceria Pansa at Piazza del Duomo. The traditional pastry shop is open until the late evening and provided me with proof that even a piece of cake can make you feel tipsy. Baba au rhum, a not-shy rum-soaked and pudding-filled yeast cake, along with a creamy cappuccino, while we watch the lively activity in the small piazza in a very Italian way.

Tip: Limoncello, a lemon liqueur, and the creamy variant Crema di Limoncello can be found at every corner along the Amalfi Coast, but a visit to Antichi Sapori d'Amalfi is particularly recommended. Here, not only is there a vast selection of Limoncello in all sizes, but you can also watch the production process firsthand at the old family business.

Ravello is not directly on the coast but a bit further up the mountains. And as if the traffic on the Amalfitana wasn't adventurous enough, it gets even more exciting heading to Ravello. The roads become curvier and narrower, with the largest tour buses jostling their way up, even though the entire road, including the direction of traffic, is only marginally wider. But the journey is worth it: Ravello is like a small mountain oasis, quiet and green.

Many classical concerts take place here, including one of the most famous music festivals in Italy. One doesn't know what came first: Ravello or the music. At the Villa Rufolo, with its wonderful view, classical music plays everywhere, fitting so seamlessly into the surroundings that one might think it is part of the panorama. No wonder Ravello has always been a retreat for writers and creatives.

Technically, the Amalfi Coast ends just before Salerno. However, I don't want to withhold this insider tip from you! Most tourists don't venture this far and turn back before reaching Salerno. But Salerno is a charming Italian city with unexpectedly rich history. While it lacks the typical Amalfi Coast panorama with cliffs and towering rocks, the old town, which remains (still) undiscovered by tourist crowds, has a rough charm that perfectly complements the tranquil spots of the Amalfi Coast. In my opinion, it's only a matter of time before hordes of tourists flood into Salerno too - so go while it's still an insider tip!

In Salerno, the School of Salerno was established at the beginning of the 10th century, one of the first medical schools in Europe. Besides research and teaching, the effects of medicinal plants were also studied, in gardens like the Giardino della Minerva, which was made accessible to the public a few years ago. Although I'm usually not interested in botany or medicine, we enjoyed the tranquility of the beautiful garden at the café over a house-made tea or cappuccino and soaked up the last Italian sunshine before heading home.

Getting There: The Amalfi Coast is quickly reachable from Naples Airport: In just under an hour by car, you can reach Sorrento, from where you can start your drive along the coast. If you don't want to rent a car, public transportation is available. The so-called SITA buses travel between Sorrento and Salerno, stopping at every town along the Amalfi Coast; however, you are less flexible with this option, and buses can be very crowded in the summer. Schedules are then more like rough guidelines than fixed times.

Alternatively, especially in high season, there are numerous ferry connections from Naples, Capri, Sorrento, and Salerno to the individual towns. However, this means missing out on the unforgettable experience of driving along the coastal road. Day tours to the most important places on the Amalfi Coast are also offered from Naples, but it's truly worth investing more than just a day in the region.

Accommodation: There are countless accommodation options along the Amalfi Coast. In high season, early booking is advisable. Parking is often scarce.

If you don't care much for luxury and appreciate unusual accommodations, I suggest my insider tip: At the Campingplatz Santa Fortunata in Sorrento, you can not only park without worry, but for non-campers, there are also small, well-equipped bungalows with a view of the Bay of Sorrento. In summer, you can have breakfast under olive groves on your own terrace and then either swim a few laps in the on-site pool or at the house beach. (Note: The campsite is only open seasonally from April to October.)

Beaches & Swimming: As beautiful as the sea is at the Amalfi Coast, classic beach paradises are rarer to find. Often, there are only accesses to small coves at rugged cliffs, or the sand at the few 'real' beaches is dark. Space is usually limited. Larger and more accessible beaches can be found, for instance, in Positano or Maiori. Occasionally, there are also hidden swimming coves like Spaggia Cavallo Morto near Maiori: The romantic cove with turquoise water, however, is only accessible from the water! Small motorboats with or without skippers to visit these small coves can be rented in all towns on the Amalfi Coast, such as Amalfi or Maiori.

What to Bring: Along with my usual Italian souvenirs such as olive oil, pasta, and Parmesan cheese, this time I also packed a lot of Limoncello and some handicrafts (I love those colorful plates!) in my suitcase, so be sure to leave some room in your luggage!

By the way, my two precious lemons only lasted two days in Berlin before they became inedible. I think they simply missed the Italian ease and sunny climate of the Amalfi Coast. Understandably.

Here you can find Tatiana's highlights along the Amalfi Coast at a glance: